A week in the Wye Valley

31 Oct

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Renting a cottage or holiday house is like going on “Through the Keyhole”. Who lives in a house like this? I always look for homes to rent as opposed to bland, uniform, faceless rental houses with no character. I like quirkiness.

We just spent a week at Rosewell Cottage in the village of Brockweir in The Wye Valley (on the Gloucestershire border with Wales). The house we discovered from the old photos we found there once belonged to Flora Klickmann. She was an author who moved to the Wye Valley from London in 1912, was editor of the Girl’s Own Paper and who went on to write a whimsical series of books about nature and village life (known as the Flower Patch books). She was an early environmentalist and a literary celeb of her time. Many would visit the village on pilgrimages to see the cottage where Flora lived.

Rosewell Cottage in the Wye Valley

Rosewell Cottage still has a spectacular garden which looks out over the Wye Valley. All you can see from the house are stunning trees and birds swooping across the tree tops. Woodland surrounds the house, with magical mossy paths to follow up the hillside. The kind of woods where you could believe fairies live. The children loved it. There are also two very friendly sheep in the paddock by the house. The owners leave a tin of sheep nuts so visitors to the house can feed them.

There’s a great walk from the house through the woods, along  a section of Offa’s Dyke Path to the village’s eco project shop and cafe (The website doesn’t do the cafe justice). It’s in an oak barn perched up high above the river with a playground with a spectacular view. There’s a sandpit, zip wire, slides and climbing frames. Coffee and cakes were all delicious.

From there you can walk back down through the small village of Brockweir and along the River Wye back to the cottage. Tree climbing, sheep fields, cakes and swings, mud and pooh sticks. The perfect walk to keep young children entertained.

The garden table at Rosewell Cottage

The house has 4 bedrooms, sleeps 7 and is just lovely. A huge kitchen and oak and glass dining room looking out to the garden. There’s a playroom with retro fisher price toys, a wooden dolls house, board games and lots of books. The owners kindly left out a stairgate, cot and high chair for us. It was comfortable and cosy with wood supplied for the log burner. It really was perfect. The cottage feels romantic and remote despite being just 20mins from the end of the M4, and walking distance to a village pub. (Took our London friends 2 and a half hours to drive there.)

At the turn of the century, the Wye Valley was the equivalent of a modern day Ibiza. Victorians and Edwardians flocked to Monmouth, cruising down the river and communing with the wild Wordsworthian landscape. Tintern Abbey is just a little further down the river from the cottage. Autumn was the time of year to be seen in the Wye at the turn of the century. You can see why on a sunny October day, walking through an incredible array of autumn colours.

Puzzlewood

The Forest of Dean is 20mins away where you can hire bikes for the whole family and ride through the forest on cycle trails. We got bikes with baby seats attached from Pedalabikeaway and the kids loved it.

We’d also recommend Puzzlewood, an amazing wood with walkways high up in the trees. The woods look like they belong in a Tolkein book or an episode of Doctor Who.

Richard Booth's Bookshop in Hay-on-Wye

We drove across the nearby Brecon Beacons to the book mad town of Hay-on-Wye and loved the children’s section of Richard Booth’s Bookshop. An emporium of books in a beautiful old cinema.

Rosewell Cottage costs from £275 for 4 nights. They also offer further discounts if you don’t use all the bedrooms.

If you’re hunting for other cottages in and around the Wye Valley, try Blaentrothy Cottages , Sheepskin, Manor Cottages and Under the Thatch.

Rosewell Cottage

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Woods

4 Oct

 

 

 

 

 

 

There’s something about trees that just make us humans happy. And if ever there were a cure for my grumpiness then swinging high into the branches on a giant swing under autumn coloured leaves is it. I’ve just come back from a great day with the children in an enchanted forest (aka Groombridge in Kent).

I can vividly remember as a child the calm magic of walking through bluebell filled woods with my parents. That feeling of awe and excitement came back to me in a flash today as I played with the children. We swung from the trees, spotted a deer and collected chesnuts. We could have happily stayed there long after dark.  So here are some great woodland places where you can sleep:

The Horsebox in Wilderness Woods, Sussex

For a back to basics experience then you can camp in Wilderness Wood, East Sussex. They have four private camping areas with basic shelters and firepits in this stunning woodland. Book direct with them for next Spring. Or you can stay in their converted wooden Horse Box which sleeps 4 and has toilet, shower and wood burning stove to keep you warm on autumn nights. Book with Canopy & Stars. Costs £160 for 2 nights.

La Rosa

La Rosa, near Whitby, North Yorks. looks great and is in 16acres of woodland. They have 3 bohemian caravans with wood burning stoves for autumn holidays. £100 for 2 nights, including hot water bottles and hot showers.

I recently visited the National Trust’s Nymans house and gardens in Sussex. It’s spectacular and surrounded by woodland. It made me think of the ramshackle house in Dodie Smith’s I Capture The Castle. Can highly recommend visiting and it’s less than an hour from London. The National Trust also rent out a beautiful house in the woods at Nymans which comes with the warning, “The cottage is completely isolated within the woods and the nearest properties are some distance away. It gets very dark at night and consequently is not recommended for those of a nervous disposition.” Sounds just great to me.

For a luxury, uber stylish woodland cottage have a look at Sheepkin’s Tamar Forge, nr Tavistock (Devon/ Cornwall border). Stunning. Sleeps 4. Woodland walks from the house down to a river.

For a cheap and cheerful weekend away, friends recommend Sandy Balls (what a name!) inside the New Forest. Timber lodges under the trees, with swimming pool, cycling hire etc.

Forestholidays.co.uk also have lots of cheaper cabins to rent; I liked the look of Deerpark cabins in Cornwall. From £400 for a long weekend in the woods this October.

If you can’t go away this autumn then try The Woodland Trust’s brilliant website which lets you find the woods nearest to where you live with a postcode search.

Dordogne fisherman's cabin in forest

A quick mention for this French fisherman’s cabin I spotted in the Dordogne, France. Looks amazing. In a forest, on water. Sleeps 4. Great for wild swimming. 550euro per week.

And do have a look at my blog post all about treehouses you can hire for holidays.

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Travels with my grandmother

25 Sep

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

When my mum was working during the school holidays my grandmother would often look after me and take me on daytrips. She drove a school bus which seemed daring to me at the time. Sometimes she’d bring me along. I remember her threatening to stop the bus and make all the kids get off after one particularly wild trip. Children would be running up and down the bus, sweet wrappers flying.  But on this particular journey all the children had decided to use their shoes as missiles. Dunlop Green Flash plimsolls were flying in all directions. They were crazier and braver kids on her bus than the children I went to school with. Those trips with my grandmother were both exciting and scary. I couldn’t quite believe that my nan was in charge. We went to the circus, to museums and all over London. Trips from childhood which I can still remember in detail.

But a photo I found this morning is from a long summer when I was in my late teens in Corfu. My grandmother took me to visit her sister who lived in Greece. A spectacular house with blue shutters and steps down to a sandy beach. I lay in the sun all day and read book after book. Meanwhile my great aunt and grandmother never ceased to amaze me with their cocktail making skills. A glass of Ouzo before lunch. 5pm was time for an Old Fashioned. A slug of whiskey, some ice, a dash of soda, a slice of orange and a cherry. A bottle of Retsina with dinner. I couldn’t keep up.

Mostly I remember giggling in the back of my great aunt’s old banger as she drove up winding roads in Corfu’s hills. She would drive at a steady 10mph and beep her horn ever 20 seconds. She told me this was to let everyone know she was coming. She was a very nervous driver. The kind of driver who would break at green traffic lights just in case they decided to turn red. I would squirm with embarrassment in the back of the car as locals would stare in bewilderment at the site of two very English ladies in their cardigans and a teenage girl slowly cruising through Corfu villages. One of my best holidays ever.

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Shepherd Huts

15 Sep

The end of school summer holidays and the beginning of September give me such a mix of feelings. One part of me is sad that another summer is over; regrets that we didn’t get to swim outside more and didn’t have quite enough picnics. The other part of me is filled with excitement about the year ahead; a time for planning and new resolutions. And yes, I have been hunting for new holiday ideas and places to book for next year. Holidays to look forward to through the darker, winter months.

So this post is about places to go to right now. Places you can go to catch the last of the bright autumn sunshine and warmth. Places to go to stand in awe at the trees turning from green to shades of yellow, brown and red. Too cold for camping now. So how about a shepherd’s hut?

The Rolling Downs Shepherds Hut

The Rolling Downs is a brand new shepherd’s hut in Sussex. I’ve been to visit it and it’s beautiful. It’s on Bentley estate, between Lewes and Uckfield. It sleeps 2 adults and 2 (small) children. It’s in a field on its own. An incredible spot for star gazing on clear nights and there’s a magical wood which you have to yourself after the estate closes at 5pm.

There’s a firepit outside and best of all a woodburner inside for keeping warm and cosy. Plus it has a proper loo and shower. They still have availability over coming weeks and it’s the perfect spot to watch the trees turning.

It costs £95 per night and you can stay just one night.

Hideaway Huts, Cornwall

Hideaway Huts in Treworgey, Cornwall (nr. Looe) has several beautiful shepherd’s huts to rent across their farm. They’ll bring you high tea to your luxury hut. There are wood burners in each hut and a firepit outside. They still have availability in September and October. £90 per night. Lots of animals to meet on the family friendly farm and horse riding too.

Tilley’s Hut in Dorset, at the foot of Melbury Downs, also looks lovely. Has a woodburner and solar powered lighting. Costs £170 for 2 nights. They have special offers on this September too. Plus breakfast is brought to you in the morning.

Tilley's Hut, Dorset

Scales Plantation Shepherd's Hut

Scales Plantation is a collection of shepherd’s huts in woodland, near the North Lake Fells (Lake District). Each hut Sleeps 4 (bunks for kids and double bed for adults).  They’ll make a private encampment for you with as many huts as you need. £250 for 4 nights, mid-week.

The Summerhouse is in the spectacular Eden Valley, Northern Pennines. Has charcoal burning stove and is hidden away in an orchard. From £162 for 2 nights.

At this time of year, it’s worth booking a last minute weekend away and bargaining on the price. Some big discounts on advertised prices can be had!

Fully equipped kitchen in Rolling Downs

Cosy bed inside Rolling Downs

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Part 2: Normandy coast – Honfleur & Etretat

16 Aug

As we pulled into the campsite, the clouds gathered. We were staying at Flower Camping’s La Chenaie  campsite in Yport. Flower Campings is an online directory of smaller campsites across France. The one in Yport is surrounded by woodland but walking distance to the sea. It has lodges and great safari style tents you can hire. We brought our own bell tent and booked a basic pitch (15euros per night for a family of 4). There’s a small playground and shower block. It was not bad. But also not that great. It’s hard to review it fairly as from the moment we pitched our tent it rained continuously for the following 3 days.

Camping in the rain is hard work. Camping in the rain with a 3 year old and a still crawling 1 year old is REALLY hard work. When camping works it’s fantastic; the children able to roam free; the fun of sleeping out. But when it goes wrong, it’s disastrous. The campsite was packed with families. But in such intensely terrible weather I couldn’t help but notice how exhausted all the parents looked. I have to say particularly the mums looked wiped out. It’s hard work keeping everyone happy, dry and not too caked in mud.

We spotted a sweet tiny campsite further up the hill at Yport and a lot less muddy called La Pature. It’s a small field of tents (no large camper vans allowed) with apple trees. Cost 16euros a night for a family with one tent. Very basic, with a small shower/loo block but with great views of the sea. It looked a lot more chilled than where we were staying.

We hit the road and found some fantastic places to visit along the coast (anoraks, wellies and all):

Vaucotte rock pools

1)      Some of the best rock pools I’ve ever seen are at Plage du Vaucotte (3km from Yport, toward Etretat). A beautiful hamlet of houses, on a car free road lined with hollyhocks leads to this spectacular beach. Take nets and buckets.

2)      Honfleur is about an hour’s drive from Yport but is a beautiful and uber-stylish port. There’s a fantastic carousel on the quayside (2euros a go). The best ice creams are at Amorino on the old port. There are lots of great restaurants & jazz cafes in the town. I can highly recommend eating at Le Bouchon D’Honfleur a great place on the market square (Place Sainte Catherine). It’s not on the main port drag and it’s where the locals go to eat fantastic fish. They have high chairs too. There’s a lovely market beside the restaurant on a Saturday, with kittens for sale and an organ grinder. Plus there’s a mini train that takes you round the town which kids love.

An Honfleur gent at the market

3)      Etretat has an impressive seafront with a mini carousel and playground right on the pebbly beach. There’s a great sailing school for kids there too. It’s a cool town, with lots of bars, cafes and restaurants. Try eating at Le Clos Lupin.

The old port of Honfleur

4)      Cafe de la Boucaine in Fecamp. Sit outside, drink rose and eat ice creams and watch the yachts arriving into this busy port as the sun goes down. Our kids loved the wooden walkways across the port and watching all the fishermen.

I’d heard great things about the huge, sandy beaches at Trouville and Deauville – large, stylish seaside towns which a friend calls “Paris-on-sea”. But the rain was so intense that day that I truly couldn’t see my own hand let alone a sandcastle.

So had we not been camping, I’d spotted these places to stay which looked great:

Le Vieux Bassin apartment in Honfleur

1) Le Vieux Bassin – An aprtment which looks out onto Honfleur old port. Spectacular location; though would be noisy in busy August. Sleeps 4. Rent direct from owner. From £570 per week.

La Maison du Lucie in Honfleur

2) Hotel la Maison de Lucie – We spotted this on a side street while walking round Honfleur. Looks wonderful with wood panelled rooms (and expensive!). Rooms from 160euro per night (with spa). They have extra truckle beds for kids. I don’t normally list hotels but couldn’t resist this one.

Le Bourg

3) Le Bourg, St Hellier (25 minutes inland from Dieppe). Rural, stylish house with gardens on River Varenne Sleeps 6. Rent direct from owner. From £575 per week.

Flower Camping's safari style tents

4) Flower Campings – Ok, so the campsite we stayed in wasn’t all that but other friends have found great ones. I love the look of the fully equipped 2 bedroom safari tents they rent out on many of their sites. Easy & comfortable camping from 350euro per week in high season.

Bouillerie

5) Gîte de la Bouillerie du Pré des Colombiers. Incredible house which has been featured in lots of interiors magazines. 40mins from Honfleur. Sleeps 4. 850 euro per week.

The Bouillerie's main bedroom

6) Honfleur Watermill – Sleeps 12 with a pool. 5mins outside town. Not far from sandy beaches. From £1750 per week.

7) La Sauvagine – In the lovely hamlet of Les Petites Dalles. Sleeps 8. From £619 per week. Les Petites-Dalles is a beautiful tiny hamlet with a beach, about 30mins drive from Dieppe. Monet painted here.

So with our car, tent, stickle bricks, socks, knickers and children coated in mud we headed back to Dieppe to catch the LD Lines ferry home. We stopped off in Dieppe market to buy a picnic and collapsed in a heap on the deck. Arriving back at Newhaven the customs officer asked us how long we’d been away. It looked like we’d been travelling across the world for 6 months. It had been just 3 wet nights in a tent. The officer looked at us with sympathy and bewilderment.

So there we have it. A holiday of two parts. Glorious Normandy coast & truly easy ferry travel. Exhaustion & a muddy mountain of stuff. I know we’ll be laughing about the trip for years to come. Just had to re-read When Worst is Best – a post about the glory of disastrous family holidays.

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Part 1: Normandy coast – The Cote D’Albatre

15 Aug

This is a tale in two parts. A family trip with two sides. A Jeckyll & Hyde holiday. But then maybe all family holidays are a bit Jeckyll & Hyde. Some bits great and some parts damn hard work!

Most of my family holiday memories are associated with ferry trips to France. I remember the predictable chaos before we all left the house in our orange Cortina; my dad inevitably leaving the passports behind or my baby brother on the roof (he was fine!). The car crammed with snorkels and board games. I used to get terrible travel sickness as a child. So bad that at one point I couldn’t go 10 minutes in a car without being sick. My sisters would do papers, scissors, stone to decide who had to sit next to me with the dreaded bucket.

We are sailing... cross the Channel

But having had several horrendous flights since I had children, I decided it was time for a ferry holiday. And in conclusion I have to say ferries are the way forward. I think they’re going through a renaissance. No more smelly 70s Sealink boats with plastic seats. We travelled from Newhaven to Dieppe on LD Lines (Transmanche Ferries) which we nicknamed the Boden boat. It was packed with families and was incredibly comfortable. Perhaps I’m the last to catch on but who knew ferries were so civilized these days.

The great thing about ferries and children is that they can run around and hang out in the soft play ball pit. They don’t have to be strapped into chairs screaming. I pushed baby round in her buggy till she went off to sleep. Our 3 year loved being on the outdoor deck looking out to sea. It was easy to change baby and we took our own picnic. And yes, the car was packed to the rafters. So much so that when customs stopped us and saw how packed the boot was with essential stickle bricks, favourite duvets and so on that they shrugged and waved us on. There’s a lot to be said for no luggage weight limits. No hideous Ryanair check-in queues. Instead, the kids happily sat in the car listening to their favourite nursery rhyme tape (for the gazillionth time) and watched the fishing boats in the dock.

The LD Lines crossing takes 4 hours. Leaves at 9.30 in the morning and arrives in Dieppe just after lunch.

Etretat beach - Normandy's Durdle Door

We drove an hour from Dieppe to the small seaside town of Yport, near Etretat. Two towns with beautiful pebbly beaches and tall cliffs which were famously painted by Monet.

My experience of Northern France in the past has tended to be bleak, dull and a bit flat; grey villages with not a lot going on. So I wasn’t expecting to find such beautiful green valleys and picturesque villages surrounded by apple orchards. We took the slow road that winds along the coast (Cote D’Albatre). It’s stunning with tree tunnel roads (as my daughter calls them) winding through woods and emerging to small inlets below the cliffs with views of the chalky blue sea.

We stopped half way from Dieppe to Yport at St Valery-en-Caux, a fishing town, for a quick swim in the sea. Fishing boats pull up on the quay and sell direct from small stalls along the road. We saw fresh (still pinching) crabs and lobsters. Incredible fresh mussels were just 3euros per kilo.

We stayed at a campsite in Yport which is where our story turns a little muddier. To be concluded in Part 2…

Here are more ways to avoid the hell of flying. Follow in our car tracks and travel by ferry:

Fares from Newhaven – Dieppe with LD Lines start from £44.50 each way for a car and two adults, based on a five day return. There are 2 sailings a day.

Foot passenger tickets cost from £15 each way. The bus no.61 goes from Dieppe to St Valery, then no. 60 goes further along the coast to Fecamp. Bus info at www.mobiregion.net . There are also great cycle paths all along the coast from Dieppe to Fecamp (Voies Vertes).

From May to September LD Lines has a high speed ferry, Norman Arrow, which runs between Portsmouth and Le Havre, with a crossing time of 3hours 15 mins.  This costs £80 for a car and 2 adults each way. The normal ferry costs less, £48.50 each way on this route but takes 8hrs sailing overnight from Portsmouth to Le Havre and 5hrs 30mins sailing back in the day from Le Havre to Portsmouth.

Helloitsgemma recently wrote a brilliant guest post about Asturias, Spain. LD Lines also run ferries from Nantes, France to Gijon in Northern Spain. It’s an overnight boat with cabins for families.

You can get more info on the ports LD Lines sail from and the destinations they sail to at www.ldlines.com  (Tel: 0844  576 8836).

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Hoops and hoodies

21 Jul

I was just 15 the first time I travelled abroad without my parents. Somehow I’d managed to persuade my mother that it was a good idea if three girlfriends and I set off on an adventure with backpacks and tents to Italy. This was no grand, cultural tour we had planned. In fact we set off with our high top trainers, hoodies and big hoop earrings for Riccione, on the east coast of Italy.

Riccione (near Rimini) was (and still is) Italy’s clubbing mecca. For two weeks we lived in a glitzy, clubbers’ paradise; pretending to be much older than we were, dressing up in ridiculous 90s rave wear and dancing all night long. We didn’t travel anywhere from our tacky campsite. As we had no money, we didn’t really drink either. We used every penny we had to get into the clubs in the Riccione hills – they were like nothing we’d ever seen. We were South London girls who were used to dark and dingy dives where we had to plead to be let in by burly doorman who didn’t  believe (quite rightly) that we were 18.

But in Italy we were a gang of girls who were ushered into every club. Ludicrous, camp, outdoor clubs which had synchronised swimmers doing routines in swimming pools to Black Box’s Ride on Time. Clubs called Cellophane, Peter Pan and Baia Imperiale where the bouncers were dressed as gladiators and the bar staff wore togas. They were glitzy and brash and unbelievably great. There was (and is) nothing more fun than being a pack of girls – we sang along to our favourite songs at the tops of our voices, gossiping together and planning our next night out. We slept all day on lilos outside our tents and spent hours each evening doing our big hair in the campsite loos.

I came across a photo from that trip the other day and I can’t quite believe how young we look. So desperately trying to look like grown-ups, wearing far too much make-up. We thought we were 21 and sophisticated. We were fiercely independent and we looked after each other. No one got left behind. We were an intimidating pack, dismissing any lechy advances from boys (and grown men) with roars of laughter. I hope I’m brave enough to let my daughters go on their own teenage adventures. That first wonderful and terrifying holiday all of their own.

Unbelievably all those clubs and bars are still going. See this Telegraph article rounding up the best of Rimini and Riccione. I would hate to go back. It would make me feel too old. But then Ibiza is still packed with thirty and forty somethings pretending to be teenagers for 48 hours. Maybe I’ll have to find myself some glow sticks.

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